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The layout of Istanbul can seem confusing at first. The Bosphorus divides the city into the European and Asian sides, linked by two magnificient bridges, spanning the continents, the first of which was opened in 1973 tocelebrate the 50th anniversary of the Republic. Most visitors to the city, staying for a few days, will have little reason to visit the Asian side, except for as part of a Bosphorus tour, on a boat which zigzags from side to side, to take in the best of each. The European side, however, is also divided in two by the Golden Horn or Haliç, which roughly divides the historic part of old Istanbul, encompassing the areas of, Sultanahmet and Laleli, from the modern city. It is crossed by a number of bridges, the most famous of which is the pontoon, the Galata Bridge. Most visitors on short city breaks stay in the old town as the vast majority of the sites which they will be visiting are in this area. Istanbul's most famous sites - The Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia), Topkapı Sarayı (Palace) and the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı) - are all within a 30 minute walk of each other. Although it is convenient, the disadvantage of staying in the Old Town, is that, since it is not a residential area, you don't really benefit from the ambience of the modern city of Istanbul, with its excellent restaurants, lively bars, and cosmopolitan feel. Some of Istanbul's finest, most luxurious hotels are located on the Bosphorus with stunning views over the straits, or in the modern business districts. There are also some historic establishments in the area known as Pera, which blossomed at the turn of the last century. The heart of modern Istanbul, is Taksim Square and the streets around. The advantage of staying here is that in the evenings you have a wealth of restaurants and relaxed bars within an easy walk of your hotel.
HIGHLIGHTS OF ISTANBUL
Hippodrome (At Meydanı)
Now a peaceful park, the Hippodrome was the Byzantine chariot racetrack – a stadium capable of holding 100,000 people. Laid out in the 3rd century AD by Emperor Septimus Severus, it was enlarged and connected to the adjacent Great Palace by Constantine. There are three great monuments in the Hippodrome: the Egyptian Obelisk (Dikilitaş) of c.1500 BC, which Constantine transported from Luxor; the Serpentine Column (Yilanlı Sütun) from the Temple of Apollo at Delphi in Greece, made in 479 BC; and the Column of Constantine VII Porphryogenitus (Ormetaş), which is of unknown date and was named after the emperor who had it restored in the 10th century. The stadium once held four great bronze horses, but these were looted by the Crusaders in 1204 and now grace St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.
Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya)
Consecrated by Justinian in 537, the “Church of Holy Wisdom” is an enduring tribute to the skill of its architects, Anthemius of Tralles and Isidore of Miletus, who created a monument that has with-stood wars and earthquakes. The scale of its vast central dome was not surpassed until the construction of St Peter’s in Rome, 1,000 years later.
Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)
This marketplace was built in 1660 as part of the New Mosque complex. Its name derives from the fact that it was originally financed by duties on Egyptian imports, although it is better known in English as the Spice Bazaar because for centuries, spices were the main goods sold here. These days, the bazaar has given itself over entirely to satis-fying the tourist trade – it’s the best place to buy small presents from lokum (Turkish Delight) to phials of saffron, from pistachios and almonds to incense or coffee. Belly-dancing outfits are also available.
Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı)
In 1853, Sultan Abdül Mecit removed his entire family and government from the Topkapı to this European-style palace at Beşiktaş on the Bosphorus shore .
Church of St Saviour in Chora (Kariye Camii)
First a church, then a mosque, now a museum, the Church of St Saviour in Chora was built in the late 11th century and restored in the early 14th by Theodore Metochites, who also commissioned the superb series of mosaics and frescoes that he hoped would secure him “a glorious memory among posterity till the end of the world” .
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)
Commissioned by Ahmet I, the Blue Mosque was built by the Imperial architect Mehmet Ağa, a pupil of the great Sinan, in 1609–16. It takes its name from the blue İznik tiles on its inner walls.
Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı)
This small, frivolously ornate powder-puff of a palace was built in 1860–65 by Sultan Abdül Aziz as a summer retreat. It was here that Sultan Abdül Hamit II lived out his days in captivity after he was deposed in 1909. You will either be charmed or overwhelmed by the incredible detailing of architect Sarkis Balyan’s Oriental Rococo style. Look for the inlaid stairs in the Fountain Room, the hand-decorated doorknobs, the Bohemian crystal chandeliers, the Hereke carpets and the walnut-and-rosewood furniture made by Abdül Hamit himself
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saray)
This beautiful “Sunken Palace“, as the Turkish name has it, had a prosaic purpose: it was built as a vast underground water-storage tank. Begun by Constantine, it was expanded by Justinian
in 532 to ensure that Constantinople was always supplied with water; covering an area of 9,800 sq m (11,720 sq yards), it once held 80 million litres (about 18 million gallons). The cistern roof is supported by 336 pillars, 8 m (26 ft) in height. Look for the upside-down Medusa heads, reused from older Greek buildings. Istanbul’s most unusual tourist attraction is also popular as a film location and a venue for concerts.
Antique Tram
The horse-drawn tram service that rumbled along İstiklal Caddesi in the 19th century was electrified in 1914 (when the horses were taken off to war). The service was closed down in 1961, butrevived in 1990. Its cheery red carriages have become an icon of Beyoğlu.
Aqueduct of Valens (Bozdoğan Kemeri)
West of Süleymaniye are the near-perfect remains of the two-storey aqueduct built by Emperor Valens in 368. Repaired many times in the intervening years, the aqueduct remained in use until the 19th century, bringing water from the Belgrade Forest to the centre of the Great Palace complex, near the Hippodrome.
Archaeological Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi)
This is one of the world’s great historical museums. It has three principal sections: the Museum of the Ancient Orient, which contains, among other things, the city gates of Babylon; the Tiled Kiosk, with a superb display of ceramics; and the main museum, where royal sarcophagi found at Sidon in Lebanon are star exhibits .
Atik Valide Mosque (Atik Valide Camii)
One of Istanbul’s finest mosques and Sinan’s last great work, the “Old Mosque of the Sultan’s Mother” was completed in 1583 for the formidable Nur Banu, wife of Selim III and mother of Murat III.
Istanbul Museum of Modern Art (İstanbul Modern Sanat Müzesi)
This cutting-edge gallery’s small permanent collection of modern Turkish painting, sculpture and photography is augmented by touring exhibitions, video and audio installations, and an art-house cinema.
ISTANBUL RESTAURANTS
Çiya Sofrası is a simple, artisan restaurant -much like a Turkish style diner- owned and managed by a young and educated couple: Zeynep and Musa Dağdeviren. This couple, recognized as "Food Engineers" by many, collect culinary secrets from out of the way areas to create innovative daily menus. The menu changes every single day and is posted online on their Web site, where one will see both a variety of kebab dishes and traditional Southeastern home dishes. There are indeed two kitchens at Çiya; and also in fact two different restaurants across from one and other for these different kitchens. The kebab house is at number 48 / B on the same street as that of the open-buffet Çiya Sofrası (Çiya Table) at No: 43. Musa Dağdeviren explains this distinction by referring to his childhood. He was born in Gaziantep, a gourmet city that has become especially well-known and important thanks to its kebab kitchen. When Mr. Dağdeviren quited his former employment as a baker and set out to find his own unique business in 1987, he also wanted to go beyond the classic notion of Gaziantep kitchen / restaurant. It is thus that he opened also the Çiya Sofrası, where he can focus on his unique culinary interests and create out-of-the-book Southeastern culinary delights. Some of these delights includes lamb stew with eggplant, stuffed eggplants, cracked-wheat rice, dried pastrami (cured beef) with chickpeas and minced meat and interesting desserts like candied pumpkin and a variety of baklawa.
Caferağa Mh. Güneşli Bahçe Sokak 44, Istanbul 0216 330 3190
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Konyali is one of the oldest, in fact one of the first restaurants of Istanbul and also of the Ottoman Empire. The legendary story of Konyali and its culinary traditions date back to 113 years ago. Konyali was initially a workshop for cooks/chefs with only 4 tables and 16 seats. The place was called "Lezzet" which translates as "taste" to depict the nature and quality of food that the chefs cooked here. In 1920s, Lezzet became
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Konyali Lezzet Restaurant -transferring first and then transcending the taste element with the name to the establishment. Today, there are three Konyali Restaurants in different parts of the city: one inside the Topkapi Palace, one in Kanyon and one in its original place in Sirkeci. The branch in Sirkeci remains to be the same old place with low priced delicious meals off the counter, hot and fresh. The menu at Konyali Sirkeci includes everything from home-cooked meals to grills, pastry and fish. A few examples include the Turkish salted pastry börek, which is something that can be eaten at any time of the day. These pastry triangles come in many forms, either stuffed with minced meat or any one of a dozen different kinds of cheese for breakfast. Sulu börek is a popular form, which resembles a sloppy lasagne filled with goat's cheese. Stewed hot dishes and mashed aubergine salad are among the other favorites. At Konyali Sirkeci, you eat at standing-only counters; and in fact most of the trade is takeaways and deliveries.Inside are photos of some Konyali fans like Haile Selassie and Benazir Bhutto -although they actually ate at the branch inside the luxurious Topkapi Palace, and not at this humble little joint opposite the shanty Sirkeci train station!
Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi Sultanahmet Tel: 0212 513 96 96 /Kanyon - Büyükdere Cad. No:185 K:1 Levent Tel: 0212 353 04 50
Lucca is chic cafe-bistro in the heart of Bebek accommodating your mood at every hour of the day, whether you feel like partying or co-cooning. Early morning to until after lunch time, Lucca offers a menu
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that features predominantly a variety of options for breakfast, paninis, salads, wraps, home-made pastry and cakes. After 5 p.m. Lucca offers its clients the right atmosphere to chill and relax after a long and hard workday. The menu changes accordingly as well, offering little tasty plates -the tapas-, cheesy and big hamburgers, the drunken beef sauted with wine anda bigger selection of salad and pasta. Everyday whether it is a Monday or Friday, Lucca gets heated with people dining, or just drinking. There are frequently arts and music happenings: special DJs are called in every now and the little gallery inside the cafe renews itself every two months.
Cevdet Paşa Cad. No:51/8 Bebek İstanbul.tel: 0212 257 12 55
Beyti One of Istanbul's most revered "meat restaurants," Beyti began as a humble eatery of four tables in 1945 and has since grown to encompass 11 richly decorated "salons" and a garden patio. At its peak (which it has yet to come off of), Beyti served princes, kings, presidents, and movie stars. Beyti was even at one time the supplier for the now-defunct Pan Am Airlines in-flight meals, as well as Air Force One, when Nixon was the aircraft's primary client. The house specialty is the restaurant's namesake: lamb filets wrapped in lamb fat and grilled.
Orman Sok. No:8 - Florya / İSTANBUL. Tel : +90 212 663 29 90
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Kanaat Restaurant is one of the oldest diners in Istanbul, serving traditional Turkish / Ottoman cuisine samples. Given that there are few other points of interest in Üsküdar and around this restaurant, you normally wouldn't make a special trip
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to come and dine here unless you happen to be on this side of town for business or special sightseeing -such as visiting a unique mosque, hammam or palace. Nonetheless, it is also said among the locals that "there are only two reasons to go to Üsküdar: 1. to take the ferry 2. for Kanaat Restaurant". Indeed, locals on the Anatolian side visit this bustling, semi-historic eatery quite often for a quick lunch or an informal dinner and dine on pre-prepared main courses. It must yet be noted that some locals also lament in nostalgia that Kanaat as it is today is incomparable to its original establishment back in 1900s. There are some fairly ambitious and oily dishes such as Elbasan Tava—large chunks of juicy beef with melted local cheddar cheese, farm fresh eggs and a combination of seasonal vegetables-, Stuffed Onions -a specialty of Kanaat, unlikely to be found anywere else-, Özbek Rice -rice cooked together with lamb-chomps and dried onions-, Milk Pudding or Custard with ice-cream, Pumpkin Pie and more. You are advised to carry cash as you arrive, they are unlikely to accept credit cards.
Selmanipak Caddesi No:9 Uskudar.tel:216 341 5444
NIGHT CLUBS
Babylon
Babylon in Tünel has got to be the most rocking place to go for entertainment these days. Tucked away in a tiny side street behind Istiklal, its reputation as an excellent venue to see an alternative international or home-grown act is increasing daily. Bands such as Baba Zula, Istanbul Blues Kamp, anyasi, Badmarsh and Shri, Trevor Watts, Erik Truffaz and Cheikh Lô have graced the stage at Babylon to a full house almost every time. Each month a rich programme of entertainment is designed to reach out and touch everyone who loves alternative music, the arts, and performance with more..
Adres Şeyhbender sokak no:3 Tünel Asmalı Mescit / Beyoğlu / İstanbul. Telefon (212) 292 73 68.
Jazz Cafe Istanbul
In the center of Istanbul, between the history and contemporary music. Jazz Cafe established in 1982 by Mete Gurman and Cengiz Sanli, is one of the first jazz clubs to have settled Turkey. It is at the request of many musicians, customers of the restaurant, that they decide to transform the European basement bar into a Jazz Club. All the stars of jazz play at the Jazz Cafe: Bulent Ortacgil, Erkan Ogur, Maffy Fallay, Onder Focan....
Istiklal Avenue. Hasnun Galip Street. No:20 Beyoglu. tel: +90 0 212 245 05 16
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Reina Club
Reina, the choice of both foreigners and local Istanbul people on the shores of Bosphorus as a result of its quality and elegance became worldwide known thanks to its nightfall bar, dishes from distinguished cuisines of the world, and entertainment opportunity till the first lights of the morning.
Muallim Naci Cad. No:44 Ortaköy, Beşiktaş, 34347 İstanbul, (212) 259 5919
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Q Jazz Bar
Q Jazz Bar, the Çiragan Hotel's luxurious jazz bar, has some of the classiest music in town -- at equally classy prices.
Address :Çiragan Cad. 84, Besiktas, Istanbul